Sharing Date24 Apr, 2023
Textile products stand out as an essential product group that is used in many different sectors from medicine to agriculture, from construction to environmental systems, and from decoration to cosmetics. However, the production processes of these products can cause irreversible damage to our world and these damages should be reduced as soon as possible. Sustainability studies carried out to reduce the social and environmental damages of production processes in textiles are gaining momentum day by day, and new customer demands are encountered. Accordingly, the aforementioned negative effects are kept under control through certificates that encourage brands to make their production processes more environmentally friendly in order to increase their awareness and prestige.
Regarding sustainability in textiles, the first thing that comes to mind is certified products. Although these certificates generally focus on the environmental dimension of sustainability, such as what kind of raw materials are used in the products, what methods are followed in the process of obtaining these raw materials, and their traceability in the product content, they may also include criteria related to the social dimension of sustainability from time to time. Inspections are carried out in the production areas of the brands aiming to have one of the mentioned certificates, the proof of the necessary changes is requested, and then the relevant certificate is given to the brands that meet the requirements. Thus, it is ensured that the final product has certain standards. From time to time, these standards may cause consumers to misunderstand that the product is completely sustainable. In fact, these standards are often insufficient to evaluate the entire environmental effects such as waste, losses, quality problems, or the negative social effects that the working environment and conditions may cause.
In addition to communication policies that are prone to misinterpretation, the advertisements and unconscious consumption also obligate the concept of sustainability in textiles to reevaluate. Especially due to the unconscious consumption encouraged by the fast fashion trend, the demand in the textile sector is growing and the production volume is constantly increasing. Textile wastes generated as a result of manufacturing processes are only the tip of the iceberg, and the invisible part of the iceberg is more frightening. As an example, polyester, which is the apple of the eye of the fast fashion industry, is a synthetic fiber and constitutes approximately 60% of the content of textile products for clothing. During the production of clothes, microparticles that mix into the water during the washing phase and into the air during the cutting and warp-weaving phases mostly stem from the use of synthetic fibers. Moreover, according to research, 1 to 6.5 million microplastics reach treatment plants daily from domestic and industrial sources, and 54 to 88% of this amount consists of microfibers.[1] Inhalation of these substances, which cannot be treated correctly, invites lung diseases such as asthma, while the microparticles in the water endanger living life and the continuity of the ecosystem.
Another issue that should not be forgotten when evaluating the environmental effects of the textile industry is chemical management. Chemicals are used in the whole process; from chemicals used in the production of natural or synthetic raw materials to the production chemicals, from finishing to the safety of the product at the final delivery stage. For this reason, in addition to reducing the use of chemicals and correct chemical management, choosing the right chemicals in the first place is of great importance. Among the criteria taken into account in chemical management; MSDS & CAS number data of the chemicals used, which must be evaluated within the scope of OHS, whether the chemical is on the SVHC (Substance of Very High Concern), MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) and RSL (Restricted Substances List) where prohibited or restricted chemicals listed, or the Gateway ZDHC (Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals) lists where the chemicals that are not intended to be discharged into the nature are listed, whether it is subject to a usage permit within the scope of KKDIK (Registration, Evaluation, Permission and Restriction of Chemicals), which is the chemical control system based on Reach compliance of Turkey, whether it complies with the chemical lists determined by the customer on the basis of production and/or supply of the company, and whether it complies with the standards stipulated by the certificates that include the use of chemicals such as Oekotex & Oekotex-recycle in the evaluation criteria. Compliance with these lists is often checked by brands through various internet-based systems, or followed by field audits. The increase in the quantity rather than the quality of these criteria and tracking systems makes it difficult to follow the chemical lists and this situation exposes the companies to various penalties.
Unfortunately, the negative effects of textile products on the environment can continue after the production process. These products require various cleaning processes throughout their lifetime and these processes adversely affect the environment. That’s why it’s not enough just to have an improved production process or a sustainable product chain to produce a sustainable product. In addition to the cleaner production approach, the focus should be on reducing the total impact of the product throughout its life. Design teams have a great role to play in the transition to sustainable textiles. The eco-design approach makes it possible to obtain time-defying and functional products with small changes to be made in the production process. For example, with a change in design, if the life of a product is increased by only 10%, it can be ensured that the product in question causes 3 million tons less CO2 emission, 150,000 tons less waste production, and 600 million m3 less water consumption.[2] Having a very important role in reducing the hidden pollution caused by textile products;
- P&D studies that increase product excellence and make it possible to produce the product with more environmentally friendly methods,
- R&D projects that extend the life of products or aim to reduce pollution and obtain more sustainable products by using natural dyestuffs,
- Quality control teams that continue their work to reduce the rate of re-process and zero defect in production with material and process management,
- Design teams that design sustainable products with eco-designs,
makes significant contributions for operating the sector in a more environmentally friendly manner.
Textile products, which we use in every stage of our lives and are in contact with, have a very important place in human life with the comfort and functionality they provide. However, the overall comfort obtained has an adverse outcome, and this outcome appears as damage to nature and sometimes to society. Textile products that are not managed well enough in terms of both environmental and social aspects in the production process may cause health problems, environmental pollution, and social inequalities. For enabling the textile industry to implement more sustainable production practices, the presence of conscious employees as well as senior management that attaches importance to sustainability is essential.
Resources:
1) İlkan Özkan; “Plastik Kirliliği, Mikroplastikler ve Tekstil Sektörü”, Tekstil Mühendisinin Sesi (TMMOB Chamber of Textile Engineers Bulletin), Issue: 7, May-June 2021, p.12.
2) UNEP, MAPBC, SCP/RAC, BCSD Turkey; Circular Business Opportunities in the South Mediterranean: How Can Business Lead the Way to Sustainable Fashion?, Joint publication of Regional Activity Centre for Sustainable Consumption and Production (SCP/RAC) and Business Council for Sustainable Development Turkey (BCSD Turkey), Barcelona, 2020.
